Is the card real? How to spot a fake card

Most counterfeits give themselves away in the print and in the card's core, not in the artwork. Hold the card up to a strong lamp: genuine Pokémon, Magic and similar trading card game cards made of regular card stock have a dark layer in the middle that lets very little light through, while a fake card often shines through clearly. The test does not suit chrome cards, which are made from a different material. Then place the card next to one you know is genuine from the same game and compare colour, sharpness and surface. Almost every counterfeit fails that comparison.

The quick tests, in the order you should do them

1. Compare with a genuine card. Same game, preferably the same set. Lay them side by side.
2. Hold it up to the light. Genuine cards have a dark core that blocks most of the light.
3. Feel the surface. Genuine cards have an even texture, neither sticky nor completely smooth.
4. Read the fine print with magnification. Genuine print is sharp all the way to the edges.
5. Bend the card slightly. A genuine card springs back. Fakes are often stiffer or floppier.
6. Compare size and thickness. Put the cards in a stack and see if anything sticks out.

The six signs

Light through the card	Genuine cards made of regular card stock have a black core between front and back. If the card clearly shines through, that is a warning sign. The test does not apply to chrome cards.
Colour of the back	Counterfeits rarely get the shade right. A blue tone that leans towards purple or grey is obvious next to a genuine card.
Sharpness of the text	Look at the fine print at the bottom with magnification. Fake print turns fuzzy or pixelated.
The surface	Unusually glossy, sticky or completely smooth cards do not belong.
The foil pattern	The foil treatment should follow the card's own design, whether it covers a small area or the whole surface as on a full art card. Compare with a genuine card from the same print run: a pattern that does not match any known variant is the warning sign.
The cut	Uneven edges, the wrong kind of corner rounding or a card that is noticeably larger or smaller.

Red flags before you even look at the card

• A pack or box full of rare cards. Contents are distributed evenly across the whole print run, so a box like that is unlikely.
• The price is far below market without explanation.
• The seller cannot say where the item comes from.
• Photos that are borrowed or too poor to show edges and surface.
• Cards sold loose and undescribed in large bundles.
• Spelling mistakes or the wrong font in the card name.
• A card number that does not exist in the set's checklist.

What is most commonly counterfeited

Expensive single cards	Charizard, Black Lotus, Blue-Eyes and other icons.
Modern chase cards	Special illustrations and alternate art versions.
Graded cards	Counterfeit slabs with genuine label numbers from another card.
Whole sets and bundles	Complete sets at an unreasonable price, often entirely reprinted.
Japanese special cards	Where fewer buyers know what the original should look like.

Graded cards have their own checks

1. Look up the label number with the grading company. It should show exactly the same card and grade.
2. Check that the slab is intact with no signs of having been opened.
3. Compare the label's font and hologram with an image from the company's own site.
4. Weigh in the seller's history. A counterfeit slab takes more work and mainly appears on expensive cards.

Tests that destroy the card

You will read about the rip test, where you tear the card to see the black core. It works but destroys the card, and should be seen as a last resort on a card you have already written off. A card worth checking is worth having assessed instead. The same goes for water tests and scratching the surface.

Fake cards in sealed products

Cards from an unopened box from a proper distribution chain are genuine. The problem arises with loose packs of unknown origin, with boxes that have been opened and resealed, and with cards sold individually without history. The question of authenticity is therefore almost always a question of the item's origin rather than of the card in your hand. Read about how to assess a sealed box.

Frequently asked questions

• Are all cheap cards fake? No. Common cards are cheap because they are common.
• Can a genuine card look strange? Yes. Misprints occur and are sometimes valuable in themselves.
• What do I do if I have bought a fake card? Contact the seller, and the platform if the purchase was made there. Keep all documentation.
• Is grading a reliable proof of authenticity? Authentication is part of grading, but slabs are counterfeited too. Check that the slab is untouched and look up the label number with the grading company.
• Can you tell from the price? Often. A price far below market without explanation is the clearest sign of all.

Read more about grading, card condition and what a card is worth.

Shop: trading cards at Bangerpack.

Written by those of us who run Bangerpack. Range and prices change continuously. What applies when you read this is shown in the category.