What is my card worth?

A card's value is what someone has actually paid for an identical card in the same condition. So look at sold prices, not at what people ask in their listings. Three things decide it: which card it is, what condition it is in and whether it is graded. The method below takes you from an unknown card to a reasonable price range in a few minutes.

Quick facts

What the value is	What someone has actually paid for the same card in the same condition
What it is not	Asking prices in active listings
Biggest factor	The right version, then condition, then grading
Time needed	A few minutes per card with the right method
Most common mistake	Comparing two different versions of the same card

How to compare two listings

Same card number	Otherwise it is not the same card
Same version	Foil, reverse holo and special illustration have different prices
Same language	English and Japanese have their own price levels
Same condition	One step on the scale can halve the price
Graded or not	A grade is only compared with the same grade
Sold or asking	Only completed sales count

Selling instead of just valuing

1. Photograph the card in daylight, front and back, without a sleeve.
2. Describe the condition more strictly than you think is needed.
3. State the set code, card number, version and language in the listing.
4. Price against the median of completed sales, not against the highest one.
5. Factor in fees and shipping before you set the price.

Step by step

1. Identify the card exactly. The set code and card number are at the bottom, usually as 123 of 197.
2. Work out which version you have. Regular, foil, reverse holo, special illustration or numbered parallel.
3. Assess the condition honestly. Follow the method in the condition guide.
4. Search completed sales, not listings that are still active.
5. Filter on the same version and the same condition. Otherwise you are comparing two different things.
6. Take the median of the latest sales, not the highest.
7. Deduct fees and shipping to get what you actually end up with.

Why two identical cards can have completely different prices

Version	Regular, foil, special illustration or numbered parallel.
Condition	Corners, edges, surface and bends. The biggest single factor on older cards.
Grading	A confirmed grade removes the buyer's risk and shows in the price.
Print run	How many were printed, and how many remain in fine condition.
Demand	The character's popularity, tournament play and what is happening in the game.
Language	Each language has its own pool of buyers. In Germany, for example, Pokémon cards are mainly collected in German, English and Japanese.
Edition mark	First edition is worth more in several games.

Where to find sold prices

• Marketplaces with a filter for completed sales. The closest thing to an answer key there is.
• Card price databases. Good for a quick overview, but check that they show sold and not asking prices.
• Graded cards have their own registers showing both the number of cards graded and sold prices.
• Cardmarket. Europe's largest marketplace for trading card games, and the best picture of what is actually paid in Europe, which can differ from prices in the United States.

Sealed products are valued differently

An unopened box is valued on what the market pays for that particular edition, and there the condition of the packaging and the seal matter. Older boxes are also affected by whether they can be shown to be untouched. Read more about how a sealed box is assessed and about what drives the price of old boxes.

Common mistakes

• Looking at the highest asking price instead of completed sales.
• Comparing an ungraded card with the price of a graded one.
• Assuming an old card is valuable. Age alone means nothing, the print runs in the nineties were enormous.
• Judging the condition of your own cards generously.
• Mixing up a special illustration with the base version of the same card.
• Comparing with prices from another market without factoring in shipping and customs.

When a card is worth less than you hoped

1. Check that you compared the right version. It is the most common mistake.
2. Check the condition once more, more strictly.
3. Consider whether the card was reprinted later, which lowers the original's value in some games.
4. Check that you are not comparing with a parallel or a special illustration of the same card.

Frequently asked questions

• Is there an official price list? No. The price is what the market pays.
• Do you buy cards? No, we do not buy cards.
• Should I grade before I sell? Only if the numbers in the grading guide add up.
• Why do prices differ between sites? Different fees, different pools of buyers and different delivery times.

A word on value over time

We sell cards and we give no advice on what will go up. Prices in this hobby move in both directions, often quickly, and the only thing we can say for certain is what the market pays. Buy what you enjoy owning, and the value becomes a bonus rather than a requirement.

Read more about valuable Pokémon cards, the value of football cards, card condition and authenticity.

Shop: toploaders and sleeves at Bangerpack, for the cards you want to keep.

Written by those of us who run Bangerpack. Range and prices change continuously. What applies when you read this is shown in the category.